Hi! I have had an Alesis RA300 amplifier for a few years now and it has performed very well, powering my 12", 8ohm JBL Lancer 88 cabinets (1969 vintage) for my mini studio. Now when I use the amp, it will cut out for no apparent reason. I'll be playing music through the amp at very low levels (no LED's lit) and the sound will just shut off. At the same time I hear a click from inside the amp. Some time, maybe 2 to 30 seconds later I'll hear another click from inside the amp and the sound will come back. It sounds like the overload relay is tripping for no reason. Any idea how this can be fixed?
EMPLOYEE0Hey Terry, an amp can turn off like that when overheating or power surging but in your case you might want to have an authorized repair station take a look at it. Doesn't sound like you move or change your rig so I would guess something is failing inside thats is causing the shut down. Feel free to contact us for repair information:
200 Scenic View Drive
Cumberland, RI 02864
Numark Alesis Europe LTD
Unit 3, Nexus Park
Hampshire GU12 5QE
Tel: 0044 (0) 1252 896000
Fax: 0044 (0) 1252 896021
ALESIS STUDIOSOUND GmbH
Tel: +49 2154 812 99-0
Fax: +49 2154 812 99-9
10th Floor, NO. 165, Naking East Road
Taipei 105 Taiwan
Tel: +886 2 2717 2389
Fax: +886 2 2717 2734
Weins & Issei Yokohama Bldg. 5F
7-150 Hanasaki-cho, Nishi-ku
Tel: +81 45 290 6390
Fax: +81 45 316 8665
By the way, just telling me to call your service line doesn't constitute "solving" the problem as far as the customer is concerned. This problem is not "solved" until the amp works. I gather that you define "solved" as getting the customer off your list onto someone else's.
OK, first of all, with a little research, you'll see that the REAL reason for all the RA series amp failures are the crappy DONG-WOO relays Alesis chose to use. RA-150, 300, and 500 all have the same problem. Simple solution for the RA-300 (providing you can solder/desolder or have a friend who does):
* Buy one NTE R25-11D10-12 (at $6.24)
* Disassemble the amp (6 screws on top, and four on the side, inside the heat sink fins, the inside screws)
* Carefully unscrew the power supply board (it's the one on the bottom with 4 screws and one screw that holds the rectifier)
* Using a 40w or higher desoldering tool (or solder braid), remove the black relay (8 contacts, total)
* Replace with the NTE one you bought
Voila! One working amp! Total bench time? One hour. Also, check out the 10000uF 63v caps. If they are bulging or "rattle", replace them, too.
Thanks for the reply. I sincerely wish I could try your solution since I'm soldering enabled (built my own Heathkit stuff back in the 60's) and would love to take a crack at your proposal. Unfortunately, the Alesis hulk is already in the landfill, replaced by a Yamaha amp that appears (so far) to be working very well.
Yeah, I kept the Alesis for a while just because I'm reluctant to throw stuff out too. I always figure that 99.999% of this thing must be OK if I could only figure out the tiny bit that's wrong. It irritates me no end that the bozos at Alesis had no clue about the problem and/or no interest in keeping their customers happy. That just stinks. It's especially irritating when I've had plenty of electronic gear that's lasted over 25 years and where there are companies that are really on it when you have a problem with their gear.
I hope your solution helps someone else down the line. Thanks for your kindness.
The Yamaha P2500S works and sounds great. I really couldn't compare the sound with the Alesis since I never was able to hear them together but my ears are pleased. Now if only the Yamaha will last more than the few months that the crappy Alesis did. That's two manufacturers I've written off: Behringer and Alesis. Never again.